fischer heavy-duty anchors secure Mägdeberg climbing crag

Extreme fastenings

7/24/2024
Waldachtal

Drilling and setting anchorages on high, partly steep mountain faces are just some of the extreme tasks performed by the climbers of Konstanz’s German Alpine Association Youth Group (Jugend des Deutschen Alpenvereins, JDAV). In June of this year, the climbers restored a climbing crag on Mägdeberg, a mountain with a height of 654.2 m located in the middle of the southern German Hegau landscape of volcanoes and ruins, with views as far as Switzerland. Heavy-duty chemical fixings by fischer were used to anchor the safety hooks into the cliff face.

Nine cone-shaped volcanic relicts rise in a bizarre formation from the landscape of Hegau, which lies between the Black Forest, Lake Constance and the Swabian Alps. This region is shaped by castle ruins, fortresses, unspoilt nature and well-known excursion destinations such as the Aachtopf, the largest spring in Germany, and the Rhine Falls, Europe’s largest waterfall. In the middle of Hegau, near Singen (southern Germany), Mägdeberg mountain has a climbing crag that has been used since the 1970s and was recently renovated by the German Alpine Youth Association (JDAV) in Konstanz. 

Climbers placed the first drilled hooks around 1980, which were bonded into the rock with quick-setting cement. This cement is not weather-proof, however, and individual hooks have loosened after 45 years. In order to ensure they are safe for the climbers once more, the JDAV restored the entire area with more than 300 midway hooks and 50 redirecting points, all of which are made of stainless steel, as part of a large-scale campaign. One of the challenges was the varying consistency of the substrate. Because of this, the hooks for the midway securing points have a length of 80 mm, while the redirecting points are 120 mm long. The condition of the stone worsens towards the peak, where a longer embedment depth provides added safety. Belay stations with rings or carbine hooks provide a point to transfer the rope and allow climbers to descend at the end of the route. “Every single hook and fastening point is crucial to people’s safety when climbing”, emphasises Fynn Renner, head of youth leader training at the German Alpine Association Youth Group (JDAV) in Konstanz. “Here at the JDAV, we have confidence in the quality and reliability of fischer’s tried and tested fastening products”.

While restoring the Mägdeberg climbing crag, the climbers used compound hooks that sit flush against the rock together with the fischer 2-component FIS V Plus injection mortar. “This fastening method guarantees a secure hold”, Fynn Renner states, “as this compound system is firmly connected with the cliff face”.

The FIS V Plus injection mortar is quick and easy to use, providing a high level of safety in extreme conditions such as securing climbing hooks in high, steep mountains. One important aspect to bear in mind: The drill hole requires thorough cleaning to allow the chemical plugs to achieve their full load-bearing capacity. The JDAV climbers injected the universal mortar from the base of the drill hole using the fischer dispenser before inserting the hooks and spreading any remaining mortar. Upon being dispensed from the static mixer, the two separately stored resin and hardener components are mixed together and activated. Once cured, the compound system reaches its permanent and full load-bearing capacity. 

fischer’s SDS Plus Quattric II hammer drill proved its worth while creating drill holes in extremely hard stone. “We’ve already used the fischer Quattric II drill to secure multiple climbing routes. The tool once again impressed us during the current restoration project thanks to its low wear and tear and high performance compared to alternative solutions”, Fynn Renner emphasises. Its carbide tip, solid main cutting edges and two-piece spiral design enable faster drilling and increased service life, key advantages when working on extreme fastening tasks. The reinforced core provides additional stability during the drilling process. 

After the successful completion of the restoration project, all 50 climbing routes along Mägdeberg’s climbing crag are once again safe to climb for many years to come.

Katharina Siegel-Rieck
Press relations Officer fischer fixing systems,
fischer Electronic Solutions
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